FDA Approves Bemotrizinol (BEMT) Sunscreen Ingredient in the US

Short summary

In this Science Friday episode, host Flora Lichtman and chemist Ajay Aday discuss the FDA approval of bimotrizenol, known as BEMT, a new sunscreen ingredient that broadens UVA and UVB protection. The conversation explains how BEMT differs from existing filters, its transparent application, and why it took more than two decades for the US to approve an organic UV filter. Health journalist Michael Scaturo adds regulatory context, noting the costly and data‑driven process for over the counter drug sunscreens, the reliance on toxicology data, and the agency’s cautious stance shaped by historical regulatory decisions. The episode also touches on European usage, consumer skepticism, and when BEMT based products might reach store shelves, with a projected arrival around October.

• BEMT provides broad spectrum UV protection with efficient absorption of UVA and UVB rays
• It goes on more transparently than many inorganic filters and reduces white cast
• The US approval process for new sunscreen ingredients is expensive and data intensive, often involving animal testing
• Store availability for BEMT sunscreens is anticipated by October

Bemotrizinol in the US sunscreen landscape

The podcast centers on bemotrizinol, commonly abbreviated as BEMT, and its significance as the first new Organic UV filter to be approved for use in US sunscreens in more than twenty years. The discussion clarifies that BEMT is an organic UV filter, distinct from inorganic options like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Ajay Aday, a chemistry PhD candidate at UCLA and founder of Sula Labs, explains that BEMT absorbs both UVA and UVB light efficiently, contributing to a genuinely broad spectrum filter that can streamline sunscreen formulations by potentially reducing the need to combine multiple filters. She also notes that BEMT tends to apply more transparently to the skin than inorganic filters, which can leave a visible white cast. The broader chemistry and formulation implications are highlighted as a major step forward in sunscreen technology.

How BEMT differs from existing filters

Within the US regulatory framework, BEMT stands out as an organic filter with a generally recognized as safe and effective status. The conversation contrasts BEMT with avobenzone, which provides UVA protection but requires stabilization with other filters to maintain efficacy, while BEMT can deliver broad spectrum protection more efficiently. Ajay emphasizes that BEMT’s molecular design enables it to absorb a wide spectrum without occupying as much real estate on a sunscreen label, a practical advantage for product developers.

Safety, toxicology and regulatory journey

Michael Scaturo, a health journalist, provides regulatory context. He explains that in the United States, sunscreen ingredients are regulated as over the counter drugs, which necessitates extensive toxicology studies and can entail animal testing. He notes the high cost of bringing a new ingredient to FDA approval, citing around 18 million dollars spent by the company responsible for BEMT. He describes the FDA’s long standing cautious stance, shaped by its historical role in preventing drug related harms, and discusses the 2019 sunscreen ingredient safety data reviews that led to a gray area for several chemicals that had been widely used elsewhere but not GN Safe for US sunscreens at the time.

Public perception, European trends, and consumer considerations

The podcast touches on skepticism around sunscreen safety in the US and contrasts US regulatory decisions with European markets where some ingredients have been phased out and replaced. The conversation explains that while four ingredients remain common in US sunscreens, the industry has been moving to align with broader international safety data. Aday argues that BEMT has a robust safety profile and more safety data than some older US approved filters, underscoring its potential as a well vetted option for US consumers.

Timeline and market implications

DSM, the manufacturer of BEMT, projected that products containing the ingredient could be on shelves in the United States by October. The discussion also references how BEMT’s approval could influence sunscreen formulations going forward, potentially enabling broader protection with simpler ingredient blends and less white cast. Overall, the episode frames BEMT as a significant milestone in the evolution of sunscreen chemistry and regulation in the United States, while acknowledging the regulatory complexities that shaped its path to market.